The body of a lifeless man is placed in the coffin that my father built this morning.
It is carried and placed in the back of the truck.
Sitting next to me is the new widow.
A tiny little woman who has seen much.
She rides stoically, gripping the seat in front of her with her wrinkled
hands, hands which have held countless children and grandchildren.
She smells of the smoke of indoor fires.
The granddaughter atop my lap whispers excitedly about the passing countryside.
Her excitement is not stifled by the sallow faces of her family.
The mist and clouds hang low in a depressing darkness as we approach the village.
The hills and mountains are green from the rains.
The road is rough and the old widow rocks back and forth between me and her daughter-in-law.
Between the rolling hills there sits the tin roofs of the village of Mtetezi.
Corn as tall as a man rises throughout the crowded huts.
The rain holds back.
Tension fills the truck, everyone is aware of what is to come.
Weeping. Wailing.
The coffin is greeted at the door by the wailing and sobbing women.
Some fall to the ground and others grip each other in shock.
They follow the coffin into the house and the wailing continues.
The men stand outside, quiet.
The rain starts and everyone runs for cover.
Standing with the children I watch the clouds and mist roll over the hills.
We wait.
The muddy road is marked by the footprints of those coming to pay their respects.
The childrens' giggles and laughter drown out the wails coming from the house.
So surrounded by death, the children don't bat an eye at its presence.
Their clothing ripped and stained, the shoeless little urchins know no different.
With snotty noses and dirty faces they smile at me.
We stand and watch as people come and go from the house.
The rain stops.
The women begin to emerge.
The men carry the coffin out of the house.
It is placed on a table and the lid is lifted.
Daughters and sons, brothers and sisters, granddaughters and grandsons all pass by to see the face of their beloved man for the last time.
The lid is abruptly closed and the wailing resumes.
We walk in a large crowd down the road following the cross that is held in the air for all to see.
Onto a path down the side of the hill.
We walk.
The grave.
Freshly dug red dirt sits in a pile.
The people surround the coffin as it is handed down to the men standing in the hole.
I watch as the grandchildren show no sign of sorrow.
Not familiar with the old man they see no need to cry.
The pastor stands and delivers his sermon to the mellow crowd.
The choirs sing to drown out the wails of the women.
The empty thud of wet earth rings in the silence as it hits the coffin.
One after the other, grandsons, sons, brothers, all take turns shoveling the red dirt.
The women come and cover the new grave with water.
The cross is shoved into the earth.
Everyone watches in silence.
The son stands and begins reading the history of his deceased father's life.
Written on an old piece of paper is the account of the long, hard life of the man now laying under the earth.
A woman standing next to me attempts to shush her baby.
Another baby looks at me.
The mother shyly smiles.
Here there is new life.
Will this little one's life be better than that of the deceased before him?
Will he have shoes? Enough food? Warmth? Love?
We bow our heads and pray.
One last look at the grave and the family members walk numbly up the path.
Back up to the village.
Mist is forming.
Floating between the huts.
Barely able to see the rest of crowd in front of me, I watch the fog cover the hills surrounding.
All there is to see are the first huts to the left and right, nothing past that.
It looks as though it is the end of world.
White fog hiding the hills.
Everyone shivers.
We are ushered into the house.
With not enough chairs, old wrinkled men attempt to give me their seats.
I smile and hand the stools back to them.
Strangely the son is almost beaming as we say our goodbyes.
He smiles and tells us that after years and years his father finally accepted the Lord.
Happy is he who looks forward to seeing his loved ones again.
We pile back into the trucks and away we drive through the green hills.
Misty and rainy.
Cold and wet.
The granddaughter falls asleep on my lap, tired out from the long day.
Though her grandfather has been put in the ground today, she feels nothing.
Life and death.
The latter is so well known to these youngsters.
Darkness falls on us as we approach home.